Suede soles are fitted to most dance shoes because they offer something no other material does as well: enough grip to plant your foot without slipping, and enough glide to turn without your foot getting stuck to the floor. This grip comes from the fibres. When they are crushed, soiled, or punctured, the sole no longer does its job and needs to be revived or replaced.
What is a suede sole?
In dance terminology, "suede" and "suede" mean the same thing: leather whose surface has been sanded to bring out a velvet of short fibres, the nap. The word suede comes from the animal, but a dance sole is not necessarily made of deerskin. What matters is the velvet finish, not the origin of the leather.
This layer is glued, and often sewn, under the shoe's wear sole. It generally covers the forefoot, sometimes the entire length, and the underside of the heel receives a separate tip. On salsa sandals, ballroom shoes, or jazz shoes, the principle is the same.
How suede grips and glides at the same time
The secret lies in the suede nap. When you plant your foot flat, the fibres press against the parquet and brake: you can transfer your weight, push, and stop dead. When you rise onto the ball of your foot for a pivot, the contact surface decreases, the pressure concentrates, and the laid-down fibres allow the foot to turn.
The result is progressive friction. You control it with your weight and placement, which gives the dancer control. Rubber, on the contrary, grips strongly regardless of the foot's position: rotation is braked, and it is the knees and ankles that take the torsion. Smooth leather glides a lot, which leaves little margin on polished parquet.
| Sole | Grip | Glide on pivot | Suitable floor | Limit |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Suede | Medium, adjustable by brushing | Good | Parquet, studio floor | Fearful of water and the outdoors |
| Smooth leather | Low | Very strong | Sticky or matte floors | Little control on polished floors |
| Rubber | Strong | Low | Outdoors, gyms | Blocks the foot in turns |
| Mixed sole (smooth patch under the forefoot) | Variable | Good on the pivot zone | Various floors | Typical of dance sneakers |
This is why salsa shoes and women's ballroom shoes almost all have a suede sole: they are dances of turns and weight transfers, on parquet.
What degrades a suede sole
Dust and wax
With every dance, the nap collects dust, parquet wax, and sometimes residues of cleaning products. The fibres stick together, the surface becomes shiny and smooth. The sole then glides much more, even when new. This is the most frequent cause of a shoe "that no longer holds", and it is corrected in a few seconds with a brush.
Moisture
Suede does not tolerate water well. When wet, it hardens as it dries and its fibres flatten. Avoid puddles between the car and the studio, and do not place your shoes on a damp floor. If the sole has gotten wet, blot it with a towel and let it air dry, away from a radiator, before brushing it.
The outdoors
Asphalt, gravel, and rough tiles abrade the suede very quickly. A few steps outside are enough to damage the nap and bring back grains of sand that then scratch the parquet. A shoe with a suede sole is put on upon arriving at the studio and taken off before leaving.
Normal wear
Even well maintained, suede thins with hours of dancing, especially under the ball (pivot zone) and at the toe. The lifespan depends on your pace, your weight, your figures, and the floor: there is no standard duration valid for everyone.
Recognizing a worn suede sole
Turn the shoe upside down under good light and run your thumb over the sole. Here are the signs to watch for, from least serious to most serious.
- Smooth and shiny surface that returns after brushing: the nap is deeply soiled or too laid down. A firmer brushing can still lift it.
- Very thin suede under the ball: you can see the wear sole underneath. The grip becomes irregular from one step to another.
- Detached edges: the suede lifts around the perimeter or at the toe. It can be reglued as long as the material is sound.
- Hole or peeled area: the wear sole appears. The grip changes abruptly at this spot, which can surprise you in the middle of a turn.
One sign does not deceive: if you start to "look for" your support on a floor you know well, or if your pivots go further than before, look at your sole before questioning your technique.
Revive, repair, or replace
In the vast majority of cases, brushing with a brass brush is enough to straighten the nap and regain grip. The exact gesture, direction, and frequency are explained in our guide on the brass brush.
If the suede is peeling at the edges, careful reglueing extends the life of the shoe. We detail the method in the guide for regluing a dance shoe sole. When the sole is punctured but the upper, straps, and heel are in good condition, a cobbler can place a new layer of suede over the old one. If the shoe is deformed or the heel is tired, it is better to replace it.
For all maintenance steps (storage, drying, upper, heel), see our guide for maintaining your dance shoes.
Adapting the grip to the floor of the day
- Floor too slippery: brush for longer to lift the nap. Avoid sprays and resins, which soil the fibres.
- Floor too grippy: brush less, or dance for a few minutes to break in new suede.
- Unknown floor: test a few pivots during warm-up, before launching into chained turns.
If you are a beginner and looking for a first pair with a suede sole, the beginner dance shoes collection brings together easy-to-handle models.
Frequently asked questions
Suede and suede, is it the same thing for a dance sole?
Yes. In the language of dance shoes, both words refer to a leather with a velvet finish whose fibres create the grip. The term says nothing about the animal of origin, only about the texture.
Can you walk outside with shoes with a suede sole?
No. Asphalt and moisture damage the nap in a few steps, and the pebbles brought inside scratch the parquet. Change your shoes upon arriving at the studio and carry your dance shoes in a bag.
Why does my new suede sole grip too much?
New suede has a very upright nap that brakes pivots. It generally breaks in after a few sessions. In the meantime, avoid brushing it and test your turns gradually.
Can a suede sole be replaced?
Yes, a cobbler can place a new layer of suede over the old one if the rest of the shoe is in good condition. It is interesting when the upper and heel still hold up well. If the shoe is deformed, a complete replacement is more reasonable.