For men's ballroom dance, patent leather is the choice for formal evenings and most competition outfits, while matte leather is more supple, more discreet, and easier to live with in class and at the ball. If you only want one pair to start with, a black matte leather shoe is suitable for almost every situation. Patent leather becomes useful when you dance in gala attire or when your teacher recommends it for competition.
Patent and matte: what are we talking about
Patent leather is leather covered with a shiny layer. In the past, several layers of linseed oil varnish were applied, dried, and then sanded. Today, the finish is most often a synthetic coating, less expensive and more even. The result is a mirror-like appearance, almost waterproof, that catches the light on the dance floor.
Matte leather refers to smooth leather without this shiny layer: calfskin, nappa leather, sometimes slightly velvety nubuck. It can be polished to shine a little, but it retains a more natural appearance. In both cases, what makes a dance shoe remains the suede sole, the arch, and the low heel: the finish of the upper changes nothing about the pivot.
Patent leather
Its strengths
- The look: instantly shiny, in harmony with the tailcoat, tuxedo, or evening shirt. Under the spotlights, the foot and the line of the leg are better seen.
- Quick cleaning: a damp cloth, possibly a mild soap, is enough to remove traces and dust. The surface allows stains to penetrate very little.
- Little daily maintenance: no polishing to do before every evening.
Its limits
- Rigidity: the finish layer limits the suppleness of the leather. An approximate size will be corrected less over time.
- Creases and scratches: at the forefoot, where the shoe bends, the patent leather marks and can crack over the years. A scratch is more visible than on matte leather.
- Breathability: the foot heats up faster on a long evening.
- Friction between partners: your partner's heel or your own foot can leave marks on the side of the shoe.
Matte leather
Its strengths
- Comfort: more supple, it adapts to the foot over time in class, especially at the toes and instep.
- Versatility: it works in class, at the ball, in salsa or rock, with dress pants as well as a more formal outfit.
- Small marks are easily covered with polish or cream of the same color.
- It breathes better during long sessions.
Its limits
- A less "gala" look under the lights of a formal evening.
- Regular maintenance: dust off, nourish the leather with a suitable cream, polish from time to time.
- It absorbs stains more if it is not protected.
| Criterion | Patent leather | Matte leather |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Mirror shine | Natural, satin once polished |
| Initial suppleness | More rigid | More supple |
| Adaptation to the foot | Limited | Good |
| Cleaning | Damp cloth | Brush, cream, polish |
| Scratches | Very visible | Covered with polish |
| Breathability | Lower | Better |
| Ideal use | Gala, show, competition | Class, balls, regular practice |
And in competition?
It is often read that patent leather is "mandatory" in standard competition. This is inaccurate in absolute terms: dress codes vary depending on the federations and age categories. The regulations generally require black shoes for boys and men, and some texts explicitly allow leather, nubuck, or patent leather. Patent leather remains very popular in standard, because it matches the tailcoat, but it is not a universal rule.
Before buying, read the dress code regulations of the federation or the organizer of your competition, checking the section specific to your age category, and ask your teacher's opinion. For a first competition, our article on the first ballroom dance competition provides other guidelines.
Choosing the right size according to the finish
Because it stretches very little, patent leather does not forgive an approximate size. Try it on at the end of the day, with the thin socks you will wear to dance. The heel must remain seated when you rise onto your demi-pointe, and the forefoot must not be compressed on the sides. Matte leather that is slightly tight at the start will stretch a little, patent leather much less.
If in doubt, send the length of your foot in centimeters to contact@dansezo.fr: size advice is free.
Maintaining either finish
- Patent leather: wipe with a damp cloth after every evening, dry, then store in a fabric bag, each shoe separate to avoid friction. Insert shoe trees to limit creases at the forefoot.
- Matte: dust with a brush, nourish the leather with a suitable cream a few times a season, and polish before an important evening.
- In both cases: brush the suede sole with a brass brush, never walk outside with it, and let it dry away from a radiator.
Our guide for maintaining your dance shoes details these steps, and the comparison nappa, satin, or patent leather expands the comparison to other materials.
Our advice according to your practice
- You are starting ballroom dance: a black matte leather shoe, versatile and comfortable.
- You dance at formal evenings or in shows: a pair in patent leather for these occasions, the matte pair for classes.
- You are preparing for a competition: follow the regulations and your teacher. Patent leather is often the natural choice in standard.
Find our models in the men's ballroom dance shoes and our selection in patent leather. An automatic discount of 10% applies from 2 pairs of shoes, which makes the duo of patent leather for the gala and matte for training easier.
Frequently asked questions
Is patent leather mandatory in ballroom dance competition?
Not universally. The regulations often require black shoes for men, and some allow leather, nubuck, or patent leather. Check the regulations of your federation and your category, and ask your teacher's opinion.
Does patent leather stretch over time?
Very little, because its finish layer limits the softening of the leather. Therefore, choose a correct size right from the fitting. Matte leather, on the other hand, adapts more to the foot after a few classes.
How to prevent patent leather from cracking?
Clean it with a damp cloth, avoid direct heat, and store it with shoe trees to limit creases at the forefoot. Separate the two shoes in the bag to avoid friction. A cobbler can advise a product suitable for scratches.
Can you dance salsa with ballroom shoes in patent leather?
Yes, if the sole is suede and the shoe holds the foot well. Patent leather simply gives a more formal style. For frequent Latin evenings, many dancers however prefer matte leather, more supple and more discreet.